LR3OWNERS.COM - View topic - Wheel Nut Torque vs Anti-Seize

Robbie

Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: Waiting for my old avatar to be allowed back... we miss her!
Posts: 1303

2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti Grey

Phew, quite a response!

Bottom line is my previous teaching is correct and copper grease plus full torque is bad.

So now I have 20 nuts and studs to clean this weekend. I think brake cleaner is pretty good at shifting copper grease, together with the ubiquitous blue roll. What fun.

Thanks to all is the debate above has been a good refresher. Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948

Fri Jan 27 2012 7:06pm

Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
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Posts: 15627

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java Black

Yup, used exactly that on someone else's car the other week.

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Fri Jan 27 2012 7:47pm

SHARKYSHARKS

Member Since: 20 Dec 2008
Location: Saddleworth Lancs
Posts: 618

2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 GS Auto Buckingham Blue

I have always put a dot of copper slip on wheel stud in the 30 years in the job and never had any problems especially on commercials.
And until you have had a snapped stud because it hasn't been off for a while,

because its as dry as nuns clout ....
and then have to strip it to replace it you will know why i apply a bit of the shiny copper magic .... works for me but everyone to thier own

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Fri Jan 27 2012 7:56pm

Bodsy
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Your referring of course to steel wheels generally where the use of copper grease and similar is commonplace and torque is 'stand on it' tight. but not to be used for alloys..... How To ? - Change your Brake Disks Pads Shoes Sensors August 2011 NEW V1.6a

Clubs MTR – MANTEC – RAI – Traxide – Engel - Tree Sliders
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If you like a lot of chocoloate on your biscuit.....
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Fri Jan 27 2012 9:31pm

Splitpin

Member Since: 30 Dec 2010
Location: Worcester
Posts: 297

But the threads are steel to steel?

I have seen so many threads damaged from being so dry they squeak, that some lube is required.

BMW use some form of clear grease from the factory. D3 for daily driver, towing, mud and snow
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Sat Jan 28 2012 7:01am

Ken

Member Since: 20 Feb 2006
Location: Playing with the Grey Dogs
Posts: 8896

2012 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Sumatra Black

only on the hub not the thread promise ive seen more BMW wheels than most

simple rule with wheel bolts / threads dry only it is that simple

Last edited by Ken on Sat Jan 28 2012 9:03am. Edited 1 time in total

Sat Jan 28 2012 8:00am

Splitpin

Member Since: 30 Dec 2010
Location: Worcester
Posts: 297

That's all good and well on never vehicles, on some the wheel bolt thread is exposed behind the bearing and does go very rusty.

From all the instances I have see where wheels have come loose there is another reason like aftermarket wheels with no spigot rings or incorrect rings, wrong taper fixings and bolts/nuts tightened with weight already on the wheels. D3 for daily driver, towing, mud and snow
380bhp mini cooper S for speed
Rover John Cooper LE MINI for the restoration "project"

Sat Jan 28 2012 8:50am

Ken

Member Since: 20 Feb 2006
Location: Playing with the Grey Dogs
Posts: 8896

Never seen a rusty bolt on a BMW or Mini cross threaded over torqued from the factory yes ( and your local tyre monkey) but not rusty

Rusty nuts on the Defender all day long lets face it if you have a regular maintance programme in place the wheels should be off enough times to prevent failure

BMW service action is to clear crud and apply brake grease to the mating service

Last edited by Ken on Sat Jan 28 2012 9:29am. Edited 1 time in total

Sat Jan 28 2012 9:17am

Splitpin

Member Since: 30 Dec 2010
Location: Worcester
Posts: 297

I have seen more BMW minis than most

and they corrode like crazy, the black finish just turns to rust.

I can't see how they could cross thread at the factory as a cool machine puts all 4/5 in at the same time

D3 for daily driver, towing, mud and snow
380bhp mini cooper S for speed
Rover John Cooper LE MINI for the restoration "project"

Sat Jan 28 2012 9:25am

Ken

Member Since: 20 Feb 2006
Location: Playing with the Grey Dogs
Posts: 8896

if you say so

Sat Jan 28 2012 9:31am

Robbie

Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: Waiting for my old avatar to be allowed back... we miss her!
Posts: 1303

Ok, I now understand that the 'dry nuts' is not a universally held opinion which may make me a little more forgiving of the garage that did it (not done by my regular indie).

I'm a wheel swapper anyway so my nuts are removed at least 3 times a year (probably more) so less chance of binding corrosion. Like my indie, I do apply a little copperslip on the hub/wheel centre with only positive results.

Interesting debate all the same. Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948

Sat Jan 28 2012 11:40am

sarumlight

Member Since: 07 Nov 2008
Location: Where's the snow?
Posts: 643

2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga Green

Well I've learned something - will find something other than copper slip to use on the hub spiggot since it corrodes the alloys! Thanks!

And I'll carry on putting nothing on the threads, and checking the torque after 50 miles

Sat Jan 28 2012 4:30pm