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Disco Dunk
Member Since: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 47
  
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I've done some searches, but haven't found much to help yet.
I'm really trying to love the car, but it's making it very hard. My story . . .
Bought my car from a local independent car dealer with ~92k miles and a 3 month warranty at the end of November.
First issue was the car going into limp mode when under load. Stopping, waiting for 5 mins and restarting got me on my way again. This happened 3 times. A local garage diagnosed it as a fueling/injector fault.
I lived with it for a few days when . . . the front N/S wheel bearing collapsed. Yes, collapsed, full on metal grinding. Needless to say the car went back to the dealer who replaced the front hub/bearing and also the fuel filter. All has been well for a couple of weeks, no limp mode, no wheel bearing issues.
Now, over the last 2 days I seem to have a stalling problem. When stopped, revving the the car and letting off the pedal causes the revs drop off and the car stalls - happens when the car is warm or cold. This has twice caused me to stall embarrassingly at junctions. The first time I needed to be pushed out of the junction as I was blocking the road - the car wouldn't turn over. Second time, putting it into park allowed me to restart. Last night the stereo refused to give out any sound and the CD player refused to play tracks - a silent journey home. Fixed itself after about 20 mins of locking up when I got home.
If I hadn't just put on 4 new tyres and bought new brake discs/pads I would have given it back to the dealer by now  Any ideas what is causing this stall issue. Battery perhaps? I don't have sat nav, so not sure how I can check the voltage? I do think that the park brake is sticking a little since the read O/S wheel is a little warm compared to the others after a journey, but I intend to try and rectify that issue when the brakes are done. Doubt this is related though.
So there we are. On one hand I feel like I should just give the car back, but what about my tyre/brake investment?
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 Fri Feb 03 2012 10:46am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the clubhouse.
Posts: 15627
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Check the battery would be first call.
Not just if it's holding charge, but if the connections are tight on.
If the battery says 850cca then its one of the earlier ones, so almost certainly worth changing. How To ? - Change your Brake Disks Pads Shoes Sensors August 2011 NEW V1.6a
Clubs MTR – MANTEC – RAI – Traxide – Engel - Tree Sliders
Club MSV2 - Multi-Vehicle
If you like a lot of chocoloate on your biscuit.....
Disco3Club
I can update - Clock on Dash/4x4 Screen/3Flash Indicators/SatNav On The Move and other Software updates. Gearbox re-flash/reset etc.
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 11:10am |
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Disco Dunk
Member Since: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 47
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Thanks I'll take a look. Where's the battery located please? 
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 11:43am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the clubhouse.
Posts: 15627
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mmmmm..... I'm concerned, because I think your taking the  but actually, you probably don't know.........
Open the bonnet (release lever on passenger side footwell) finger under the bonnet in the centre for the full release mechanism.
Plastic cover on right hand side as yoiu look at the engine bay. Has two catches towards the front, release them, then list the tray off.
Underneath you'll find a battery..... How To ? - Change your Brake Disks Pads Shoes Sensors August 2011 NEW V1.6a
Clubs MTR – MANTEC – RAI – Traxide – Engel - Tree Sliders
Club MSV2 - Multi-Vehicle
If you like a lot of chocoloate on your biscuit.....
Disco3Club
I can update - Clock on Dash/4x4 Screen/3Flash Indicators/SatNav On The Move and other Software updates. Gearbox re-flash/reset etc.
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 11:47am |
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Disco Dunk
Member Since: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 47
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Thanks. Only had the car (in my possession) for a few weeks so I genuinely don't know where the battery is located in the bay. It was just a mass of plastic covers when I looked
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 11:52am |
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Disco Dunk
Member Since: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 47
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Okay had a quick look at lunchtime but not having spanners with me to remove it I only managed to get limited information on it.
It has a the web address www.yuasa-battery.co.uk on it and this on the top:
Does it look like an OEM battery? Isn't 730A CCA a bit low? 
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 3:23pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 10543
  
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that look like a wrong battery.
the OEM one is 950 CCA and 90Ah - a replacement from Varta is 850CCA and 100Ah, so that one you have seems a bit under powered !!
are the connections tight and check what the charging voltage is - could be duff alternator Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
D3 HSE 2006 (For Sale), Locking Rear Diff, 4 x LF140s, 4 x Bosch Roof Lights, Frontrunner rack, RLD Rock sliders, Winch, RAI, Twisted Exhaust, Cooper STs, GSM FBH, Painted in a proper colour !, limo Tint SupaGlass
2010 D4 HSE (sold)
MY12 D4 XS (on order for June/July)
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 5:59pm |
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MarsKy
Member Since: 23 Dec 2011
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 66
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Disco Dunk wrote:
It has a the web address www.yuasa-battery.co.uk on it and this on the top:
Does it look like an OEM battery? Isn't 730A CCA a bit low?
Yausa are common in smaller SUVs like Toyota's, and even my old RAV4 T180 had 830 CCA and 95 Ah.
Someone's done a switch on you.
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 6:07pm |
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Disco Dunk
Member Since: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 47
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DiscoDunc wrote:are the connections tight and check what the charging voltage is - could be duff alternator
Connections are tight. Is there an easy way to check the voltage? I dont have the screen Sat Nav screen.
What sort of issues would be seen with an underpowered battery?
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 7:26pm |
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bambi
Member Since: 10 Apr 2009
Location: south yorkshire
Posts: 1494
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to check voltage, with ignition of,
Take a multimeter, place the red + lead on the + terminal on battery, place black - lead on -terminal on battery. turn multimeter on set to dc voltage and set to 20v range measure resultant voltage, should be 12.5-13.5 volts.
then start engine and let it tickover your reading should be 14.0 to 14.5volts running have somebody turn on all lights, radio, heated screens, aircon, heated seats, then check voltage at tickover, then set revs to 2000rpm and check voltage,
report back with findings.
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| Fri Feb 03 2012 10:05pm |
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Disco Dunk
Member Since: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 47
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Okay got some readings this morning, brrr it's cold . . .
12.27v at rest
15v at tickover
12.7v with everything on full blast (4 heated seats, radio, both screens & heating)
13.5v with additional 2k revs
How does that look?
When I revved the first tme I got "Special Programs Off", but it didn't do it again afterwards. Still stalling sometimes though. Started okay, albeit abit lumpy at first; but it is -4c.
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| Sat Feb 04 2012 11:27am |
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bambi
Member Since: 10 Apr 2009
Location: south yorkshire
Posts: 1494
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I would say they are fine, Alternator is fine, battery voltages are ok, I know from postings on here that these are power hungry vehicles,
When it was very cold last year i got special programs off a couple of times just after start up but after that no probs.
I would say that the battery is a little down on cranking power so poss theory, is that once started battery drawing all output to recharge vehicle sensing this reports low voltage.
Looking at the fact that the car wont crank over after its stalled, and the fact that its stalling, would head down the battery route,
When it wouldnt start did you have the lever in park?
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| Sat Feb 04 2012 1:22pm |
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Disco Dunk
Member Since: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 47
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I since worked out that I probably didn't have the car in park, no  In the panic of feeling at idiot in the middle of a busy junction I didn't think. Would explain why it started after I'd been pushed to the side of the road.
The stalling is still a mystery, but it didn't do it in the snow today which is nice Think I may replace the battery to be on the safe side 
Really appreciate your input, thank you 
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| Sat Feb 04 2012 6:18pm |
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bambi
Member Since: 10 Apr 2009
Location: south yorkshire
Posts: 1494
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No worries, we are all on here because we share a love for a pile of mechanical parts that when put together anywhere else in the world would be perfect. But seen as its built by brummies it has some odd foibles .
So we all need, and can help so we come on here, keep us posted.
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| Sat Feb 04 2012 6:43pm |
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anglefire
Member Since: 09 Mar 2010
Location: In the Club House
Posts: 1082
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Oi, who you calling a brummie Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto Zermatt Silver. GNVP Sump Guard, RAI, Chrome Side Tubes,GNVP Sliders,Heated seats F&R, Heated screen, 4x4 Sat Nav enabled. ATR's (Thanks Ken)
Trailer called "Tilly"; Caravan called "The Van"
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| Sat Feb 04 2012 8:00pm |
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